Good point on the wet clutch, I made that mistake a long time ago with a 250 Mojave. Anything that has a wet clutch should run an oil intended for that type of system. I use Mobile One 4T Synthetic on my XR650. Polaris UTVs do not use wet clutches so any good 0-40 or 5-40 synthetic oil is good. I use Royal Purple because it uses a real PAO base oil unlike the ones that claim to be full synthetic using group 3 base stock oils. PAO or Diester base stocks are group 4 and 5.....

Due to a lawsuit or grievance filed some time back, Mobile One Versus Castrol in the 90s. Motor Oils in the USA can now claim to read to be full synthetic on the bottle using Group 3 Base oils. This is still not allowed almost anywhere else and oils made overseas like Castrol Syntec must use group 4 base oils unlike the group 3 base oils they sell here. If Castrol sells a quart of oil overseas using group 3 oils they must remove the full synthetic label from the bottle. This all was decided by the People or judges at NAD that probably have no idea where the dipsticks are in there own cars and ruled in favor of Castrol on the lawsuit. Even now Mobile One uses Group 3 base-oils in this country on lots of mobile one products due to the manufacture cost of groups 4 and 5 base oils. It is safe to say that any of the lower cost synthetic oils except the high end mobile one products are group 3 now. Amsoil, Royal Purple, Redline, Schaffer, Mobile One Delvac 1 would be considered Group 4 oils.....

In regards to the Viscosity of oils. An oil sold as 10w-40 is no thicker than 10 weight oil under Winter (10w) conditions, meaning below freezing. The 40 means it is no thinner than 40 weight oil at 212 Fahrenheit. So, the first number tells us the performance of the oil at or below the temperature of freezing water, and the second number tells us the performance at the temperature of boiling water. The chemicals added to the oil to accomplish this are called Viscosity Index Improver's (VIIs). Running a zero weight oil versus a Five weight oil at temperatures above freezing is safe and will not hurt any engine. In fact at -10 below zero it is still safe to run, but I would not do the same thing with a 15w or 20w due to the fact it would be to thick at those temperatures. As for very hot climates 95 to 115 degrees on my Fords and work trucks, I run a 30w over the recommended 20w, 40w over the recommended 30w oils during these hotter times.....

I would most likely would say that was the problem. The reason I asked for more detail is because with mine I had an issue with the primary clutch extending out a little farther due to the washer under the primary retaining bolt had wore into the clutch housing just a little bit and it started rubbing on the cover. The factory washer really needs to be a little wider and replacing it with one fixed the problem. It was caused by the clutch hammering the stop washer and it really does not have that much meat or surface area against the clutch housing.....

I looked in my rhino 660 manual and it says the second hose is a fuel tank vent hose. I am still not sure why the vent hose is coming off the same block as the fuel suction hose since it would cause a fuel suction or priming issue to the pump but that is what they say it is used for in the manual ....

In 2009, the RZR-s runs a different belt then the standard RZR so if you did put the wrong belt on, it could rub inside the cover. I do have a few questions though to better nail this down an answere if you did install the proper belt. Is the rubbing on the cover in between the primary and secondary clutch :?: Is the primary clutch showing the rubbing on the cover :?: Or is the secondary clutch showing the rubbing on the cover :?: ......

You are not doing anything wrong. I noticed this on the Polaris ranger years ago and and it is OK. I also have the same problem with my ford Ranger and 5.0 Mustang, they claim 5 qts but it always shows over full after the change. it has never been an issue so since then I always imagine where the oil was at the time of the oil change and make sure that is the new level afterwards till the next change. It always comes out the same way every time......

My friends carbureted rhino had the same problems and he carried a can of ether with him everywhere. I do not recommend this due to the fact that ether has been known to cause engine damage :shock: .

I had read somewhere that someone corrected this problem with the use of a electric fuel pump and a fuel regulator. This would fill the fuel bowl as soon as the key is turned on that would eliminate cranking the engine to fill the bowl. I think the rhino uses a different system and maybe someone can fill in the blanks.....

Most of the buy backs were caused by destroyed engines caused by the fuel in oil problems. what year is the one you have and what was the latest problem? I have done almost all the upgrades on some of my friends trucks. I have only a few done to mine due to the lack of money now days but all that will happen down the road when I need to pull the heads. I quite running the power adders till then because some of the issues like the head bolts are cause by turbo over pressure and the added timing that the tuners have. Anyways If you need any questions answered I pretty much have researched every problem and fix on the 6.0. as a reminder you are lucky that you do not have a 6.4 because they get 1/3rd less mileage and even though the 6.7 has all that new power, it sure has a lot of new EPA mandated and very expensive smog equipment that has not proven itself yet. You also need to run a new DPF Fluid that is stored in a second tank.....