Remember, you do not need the test harness and save the $50.00, all you need to do is stick the probe in the back of the plug and turn the key on to test and set the sensor, a small paper clip will help if your meter probe is to big, also with a small screw driver you can pop the pin out and permanently solder a small test wire to the pin like i did to test it in the future if needed, thanks on the comment on the picture also  , I will try to watch the post if any other questions come up.

On November 20th just before our departure to our turkey fest camping trip I had found my very special friend that I cared about very much and is one of the reasons that I have been on the computer on this site helping others was found poisoned in my neighbors yard as we were looking for him to put in the garage for our trip, It made the trip very hard to go on and almost did not go but forced my self, he always sat on the computer table keeping me company as i looked at what i needed to do on this site and answer questions if I had the answers, He was my cat "Dusty" but he was not just a cat but a best friend and in a way my son that i never had, his personality was part cat and part dog and part human in his behaviour and it has been a little hard since then to deal with questions or reading things on this site since he has been gone and i have had no real interest in looking at this computer since then, this is the main reason i have been slow in responses and have not been active here much since then, it has been hard and want to let people know this, this is a great site and till i can get over the loss it will be touch and go for me, sometimes i wished i lived in Utah to do the great rides with you but it is to fare, I did enjoy reading about moab and all the motivation and fun there      .

This what you are going to need to do, you are going to turn the key on and put the probe on the back of the TPS connector on the yellow wire with the red lead at the TPS connection with a multimeter, put the black lead to chassis ground, back out the idle screw until it does not make contact with the throttle blade, you will need the special driver from Polaris or you can make something that will work, the butterfly will be in its maximum closed position. You should get a reading of .528, if it is not loosen the TPS screws and rotate the TPS until the voltage is reached, when the right voltage is reached tighten the TPS screws and turn the idle screw in until you get a reading of .710 for the 2005 and .640 for the 2006, if you are running the SP ECU it will be .710 volts, this is the proper voltages for the throttle blade position at idle, it is a little hard to do but it is doable, lots of the polarises lose there adjustments for some reason and need to be checked for proper engine fueling, mine was off when i checked it when i upgraded it to the SP ECU and had to reset it. also pick up a can of CRC Mass air sensor cleaner and clean your T-mapp sensor. :idea:

If the area in your area requires you to the 50" rule the RZR is it, that would be the only way i would go with the standard RZR, it is a great machine for 2009 and i think they have worked most of the bugs out, I own a Ranger XP and the only addition to my family would be the RZR-s, It is a more refined machine and the suspension is way better and you get the H.O. 800 engine other then the standard 800 engine, it is also 6 mph faster with around 5 extra H.P., For running in the dunes that extra horse power will make a big difference, I have driven both of them and the difference is night and day, when the RZR first came out, the only thing that stopped me from getting one at the time was the difference in the stability of the machine compared to what my Ranger XP has, It just felt to tippy from what i was used to but that is not a problem with the new RZR-s, it was that stability problem that saved me from all the first year problems with the standard RZR that i was able to avoid, rummer has it that for the 2010-2011 version that the sportsman H.O. 850 engine will find its way to the RZR-s, Good Luck and chose wisely, I hope what i have told you will help .

Good info, I knew 5 out of 6, thanks .

The RZR-s is more then just suspension, It is a hotter cam and exhaust, And maybe a gearing change but I have not confirmed the gearing change yet, to jump fro 55 to 62 mph would have to be more then what is written :?: .

Assuming it is a 700 or an 800 the engine takes 2 quarts, the front diff you fill through the vent hose and make sure that the fluid is level with the check hole, that one is a little hard to get to, the rear is the same except you fill it through the check hole, it should be level with the hole when it is filled and for the transmission fill it with till it is level with the check hole, make sure you put the Polaris on a level surface when you do this, If the Polaris has more then 200 hours on it i would change the drive belt, posted on this site is info on what fluids and filters i recommend, the thread is below, let me know if you have any other questions  .

http://www.sidexsideforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=1096