Personally I think it is a good post and one that should be done at least once a year. People seem to forget on what they have and then suddenly it is too late. These machines are not toys and they get faster and faster every year either by the manufacture or modifications done by the owners. The owners set them up to seat 4 people instead of two in which they built for and then add another 10 to 30 horse power on top of that. Some people upgrade the safety equipment and some don't. The decals are removed for a custom paint job and not reinstalled and the keys are given to friends without proper instruction on how to drive one without proper supervision. I also see all the time under aged people driving them. He never mentioned that he blamed the manufacture at all in his posting, he just wants to try to remind people on what they have and to try to prevent it from happening to you or other people, I think it is a good thing and a worthy post.

Anyways, I find much much less important postings on this site then this poor person who lost his child and just wants to hopefully prevent another one, It has been A year and there are new members that may not have seen this in the past :idea: ......

Welcome and the only thing with factory power steering would be a full size Ranger. I think the Honda Big Red may also have it as well but not sure. On another note they do sell power steering kits to retrofit onto the RZRs as well but it would have to be done aftermarket :idea: ......

My recommendation on trailers now is to order it without the decals, If it is new enough get them removed ASAP. It is to late for ours because once the decals are removed the image is burnt into the finish and will need to be repainted. Lifting is the first thing that happens then they turn brown and all of them start lifting on the side that is always in the sun.

I wish I would have thought of this in 2003   :evil:  :evil:  :idea: ....,.

We have always run our trailer tires at max cold psi which was 65 psi on the old load range “D” Goodyear marathons. We also at first was using tire dressing till I found out that the dressing can effect the rubber and cause premature cracking and cause the tires to delaminate. We had stopped doing this around 3 years ago but I am sure that the first 3 years of using the stuff caused some of the problems last year.

We picked up the new tires today that were the Chinese made Goodyear Marathons and noticed a little latter that the load range “E” tires had one less ply then the older “D” tires that came off. Here are the specs….

The old tires
Goodyear Marathons ST235 80R16 U.S. Made Load Range “D” 3000lbs Load at 65 psi.
6 tread plies {2 Polyester Cords, 2 Steel Cords, 2 Nylon Cords}.
2 Sidewall Plies {2 Polyester Cords}.

The New Tires
Goodyear Marathons ST235 80R16 China Made Load Range “E” 3420lbs Load at 80 psi. 5 tread plies {2 Polyester Cords, 2 Steel Cords, 1 Nylon Cord}.
2 Sidewall Plies {2 Polyester Cords}.

After doing some research today on Ply Ratings apparently 8 ply no longer means that a tire is load range “D” anymore and a tire with as little as 4 to 5 plies can still achieve a “D” rating due to the so called improvements in tire construction. This also applies to load range “E” tires as well. So apparently my new load range “E” tires with 7 total plies, 5 in tread and 2 in the sidewall can still be rated at the old 10 ply rating.

Well after purchasing 7 new tires at $1100 dollars I hope I can get another 6 to 7 years out of them without any issues or damages to the trailer like some of the other people I know have had. One guy I know had a tire failure and it took out the inner fender well and the kitchen sink and cabinet inside the trailer. Another guy had two blow outs within 20 miles apart from each other just one year after buying his trailer on the same trip; it did some heavy damage to the side of his trailer. Both of them were running Carlisle’s……

That is why I do care on what tires I run on our trailers, I just hope the new china made Goodyears do not give me any troubles :!:  .......

I can not post pictures due to the fact that I did my clutch some years ago. To do the clutch kit you will need the tool to remove the primary clutch and the instructions are very clear on how to do the kit install from the manufacture. As for the limiter, it is easily removed during the kit install. As for the re-flash, I do not think the 2011 has the same ECU as the 2010 models and really you should re flash to the 2010 model because I think the 2011 model has a few less HP due to new EPA regulations imposed for 2011. There are many clutch kit manufactures and here is a few of them. As for the 50 hp you will need to do a little more then all this to get over the 50 hp mark. The one last main difference between the XP and the RZR engine is the RZR runs a hotter cam as well. Removing the restrictor only makes the HD/Crew engine have about the same HP as the XP engine. 

www.erlandsonperformance.com
www.dirtydawgperformance.net
www.bikemanperformance.com

I checked and the 2010 ECU are not the same ECU as the 2011. All 2010 ECUs are the same except for programing. 2010 Ranger HD and crews have shown no HP differences when flashed to XP software and run fine with the plate removed running the HD software. I you need to run the XP software it is recommended but not needed.......

Dirtydawg and or Bikeman are good engine people and can steer you in the proper direction on reflashing the ECUs and cam upgrades plus other improvements to make well over 75 HP naturally aspirated......

Sounds like you are both ok from what I read but as for the RZR it sounds like big$$$$. You think you will have it back together for your big Moab trip in time :?: .

That was a muddy trip......