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I am afraid that the way the markets are going you may have a hard time selling at this time, I was watching a car action the other night and they say people are just not putting out the money at this time because of what is happening, I also know a guy trying to sell some quads and he has no offers at this point, but I wish you luck and keep trying
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This may be a little to involved for someone without a automotive mechanical background but here it goes, I hope it helps :!:
O.k. You need to jack the front end up high enough to let the ends of the struts just show outside of the fender wells when you remove the nut that holds the strut to the body and the other hardware, do one side at a time and also make sure you remove the wheels, this well help before you start, there should be enough give to allow access to the springs but only go as fare as needed and if necessary pop of the tie rod ends, I think there is enough room on the brake lines but it has been a while, if not remove the calipers, make sure before you move forward from here that you remove all the spring tension with the spring compressor, the second nut and spacer which is a ½ x20 holds the bottom pivot ball on, then there is a spring retainer that is removed then remove the spring, Install everything in reverse order, on the link it will show the parts names and the order they go on for reference. I hope this is helpful. you will need to goto oem parts and enter the info on your machine to pull up your diagrams,
http://www.polarispartshouse.com/
You can do that but the tools are cheap now and could save you from a knuckel busting :shock: .
I think babbitts online is about the best and has the best prices as well. here is the link.
www.polarispartshouse.com
look on your other posting, good luck, it is really easy. ![]()
It is just like replaceing struts on a car, You will need a strut spring compressor tool or something you can come up with to compress the spring.
1. you will hold the strut rod and remove the top nut
2. compress the spring using the compressor tool.
3. remove the upper strut pivot assembly.
4. remove the coil spring and repeat everything in reverse.
5. You may want to check the static alignment after you install this because it will sit about an inch higher.
you should be able to get the spring compressor tool at a pep boys, harbor freight or any auto parts store. this only works on rangers up to 2008.
Do you have any soft tops for ranger XPs, I really need one that has a cut outs for over head lights on the top roll bar in between the corner braces of the roll cage, :?:
Remember, when you add wheel spacers and change the wheel offset it is harder on the wheel bearings and will cause faster ware on the outer bearing as well with more heat because of the offset loading, The only real way is a long travel kit and that cost bucks but will give you a lot more wheel travel as well. :idea: :?:
Hey it is all cool, At some point on this site if it becomes as popular as the other Polaris sites we need to break down the individual models to separate categories, I have had some people asking advise and have no idea on what they are driving, Look at the post on alignment from Dr something, it would make things easier, also i will say i could have worded my posting to yours at the beginning better as well.
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On the flip side the number i gave you was for the class action law suite attorney dealing with this problem and you should contact that number, It will help other people with your same problem at the same time to help push for a fix for that problem and you could to make a difference as well. :idea: :!:
[/quote] Why did you say that filter was only for the RZR with the air box problem. What have you done to avoid the dirt in your motor?
Just a reminder that this site is used for all Polaris 4 wheel vehicles and is not set up for individual vehicles and not all the people are aware of your problem, they will think that the new air filter will be included in units outside the RZR line prior to September 2008 in the way you worded it and would only know more if they digged in to it more, I do not own a RZR but I have friends that do and I am fully aware of the problem with this model, Ranger 500s and Ranger XPs from all years have not reported the problems you are having so when you made your posting you should have made it clear on what model you are referring to so others will not get confused, I was just trying to make a small correction to your starting statement to clear this up, I did not mean to anger you on this, the statement Why did you say that filter was only for the RZR with the air box problem is a true accurate statement and only involves pre- september 2008 GEN 1 RZRs. I own a RANGER XP and would not have to worry about the filter issue due to the design of the filter system on that unit, I am sorry for any confusion on this.
Hey madinidaho, Did that phone number work out for you in any way and how is that going. :?:
For 2005 to 2007 ranger xp that needs new ball joints EPI sells a replacement ball joint PN WE351030 and A heavy duty one PN WE350005. the price for the stock one is cheaper then the one from Polaris at $19.95 ea and the heavy duty one just under $40.00 ea.
From what i see, that is for RZRs only with the air box problem. :?:
This is a list of products that I use on my 2005 ranger Xp and should apply to all rangers and RZR's as well.
For the front end I use the oil that Polaris recommends due to the locker system and it is Demand Drive Hub Fluid part Numbers 2871654 for 8oz and 2872277 for 2.5 gal size.
The transmission or gear case I use Royal Purples Max ATF fluid, Mobile One or Amsoil or equivalent will work fine as well, do not use 90w because it is to thick and will make the gear case shift to hard.
The rear end I use Royal Purples Max gear 75w-90w, Again Mobile One and Amsoil or equivalent will work too.
Now for the engine, Polaris calls for a 0w-40w but remember you do not have to run a 0w above 0'f, I use Royal Purples 5w-40w and again you can get 0w-40w from Royal Purple and other manufactures as well but it will be harder to fine and cost more and again Mobile one and Amsoil or equivalent is fine as well. I would also recommend Rotella 5w-40w synthetic as well because of the commercial additive package it contains.
Now Engine Oil Filters, Make sure you check to see if you can use a 3.24 inch tall filter on you model or year, The filter I use is one that is used for a Honda automobile and it is a Purolator pure one PL14610, I have used one since my XP broke in late 2005 and have had no problem with it at all and It incorporates micronic filtration technology and is rated on top of the SAE test , Some other filters that can be used as well are NAPA 51357, WIX 1357, K&N 198, Mobile One ML-1-110, I Will not recommend any filter from Fram, They really are not made the way they were 10 years ago and if you like your engines stay away from them. I am not sure about using the new ECORE style filters from champion labs who changed there design at the end of 2007 and makes AC DELCO, CHAMP, STP, and SUPERTECH from wall mart.
All the information above is for reference only and you can use whatever brands you like, the oil filters can be crossed over to other brands as well. :!: :!: