Sorry I have not done the cam mod on a 500 yet, only the 700 and 800 models, it should be about the same though.

Bikeman and Dirty dawg performance have been working with Polaris rangers before anyone else did, they know the product more then anyone else and that is who i would deal with, Hands Down  :!: .

This is a prime example of a bad dealer and not a good dealer, every transmission i have heard of was repaired or replaced under warranty unless the problem was inflicted by owner negligence, not to say this was the case but there is to little info on your problem for me to make an honest judgment if the transmission failure was a factory problem and not owner negligence, at 35 hours any good dealer would have fixed it, I am very curious on what the cause of the failure was that prevented a warranty repair of this unit and why everyone else has had there's fixed with almost no problems, it just does not make sense, It is a shame that you did not read my earlier post before spending the money because it would have been fixed by some other dealer free of charge with out any problems, and again it is a shame that your dealer put you through this, I do understand that Polaris corporate has a very bad problem when you go to them direct and they always push you off back to the dealers, i have had problems with this with them in the past and it is my number one complaint with them.

One thing you will need to do is check all the pins at the TPS connector, they have been known to break close to the pins and Polaris has replacement parts for this, the other thing is you may have a bad TPS sensor all together as well and need to test it to make sure that with a meter that when you open and close the throttle body that the voltage from high and low is very consistent as you open and close it, also get some CRC mass air flow sensor cleaner and clean out that sensor real good and test for vacuum leaks around the intake with card cleaner, here is the post on the TPS adjustment i did some months back, and good luck .

http://www.sidexsideforum.com/viewtopic … highlight=

The rzr has no real bed space and no where as much bed capacity, it does share the same towing capacity but not as much as the Ranger HD, The ranger Xp and Hd have much more storage areas then the rzr class, the standard Rzr does not have the stability as the Rzr-s and the bigger Ranger XP or HD due to the width, there is a big difference here on this, the standard Rzr is way more dangerous for tip overs then the other two machines, you have to be way more careful on this, the ranger HD has power steering, the stock speeds are 50 for the ranger Xp and 55 for the standard Rzr and 62 for the Rzr-s, the wheel travel is a lot more on the Rzr-s due to its long travel system along with more ground clearance, the Rzr-s also has a hotter engine and other refinement over the standard Rzr, to build a standard Rzr into a Rzr-s it would take around $4500.00 extra dollars for the upgrades to due your self, the Ranger Xp can take 3 people in the front seat and only two on the Rzr class, As for the ranger Xp not being able to play well, It does just fine :!: , As for 2010 to 2011 models expect to see the 72 Hp 850cc sportsman engine in the Rzr-s model.

From everything i have seen on this problem is that they do seep a little, people have changed the seals out and still have the same problem afterwards, mine has stopped and come back several times and it was changed once, after a long and hard research for a fix for this problem and talking to many people with it, I just now live with it and check the level from time to time, if yours is pouring and hem ridging out you need to fix it, if it is just seepage i would run it because you can do a lot of work just to be disappointed, it is just the nature in the beast.

that is correct, 1/8 to 1/4 toe out is the proper set up.