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Give me some history on the machine, Sounds like the other guy drove it like a stolen rental car :idea: . I would run a compression test at this point. I need to know more about how it was treated and the environment it was in for any further ideas. What was it used and how was it used. Also did you try what i said before your last post :?: :idea: . I think i covered the cleaning of the T-map/T-bap sensor some time ago with CRC mass air cleaner and if not that will need to be done :idea: .
I know you PM'd me this morning but i am going to post the answer here so others can see in the future for the same problems, I do not know why when TPS sensors are set up the way the factory says and they idle to high and i have seen this before but when people install bigger throttle bodies on these engines they have to throw out the base voltage and stick with the .735 as the final setting. I had to do this on mine as well and it has the stock throttle body. So adjust the idle so it sounds proper and go back to the tps and reset to .735 and repeat the procedure back and forth till it idles well and maintains .735, don't worry about the base setting. As for the leaking spark plug wire they are prone to this and must be fixed to make all other adjustments. this could be your backfire and hesitation. This should be done in a dark place and look for the leak at different RPMs. Make sure there is no dust or water in the spark plug hole and boot and all that may be needed is to turn the boot a little. You may want to add some dielectric grease as well. This would be a good time to change the spark plugs as well. Do not use Auto lite because i have seen internal shorting on that brand.
Keep me posted and i can now try to walk you through any other fine tuning and humps you may encounter now that you have a foundation to work off of...
Are you running wounderfull windows Vista
:!: :idea: :?: . I PM'ed the setup to you. The driver is a little trickey to make but with a little fabrication it can be done. It is part of polaris's way to make you take it to the dealer but it can be done....
The miles won't matter. If you have not broken it in, just remember to vary your engine speed and don't let it get too hot during break in. If you are stopping for photos a lot that is a perfect time too cool it down a bit.
Do exactly like Badley said. It is good to drive it and shut it off for a little while and let it cool for 15 to 30 minutes and then drive it again for another 30 minutes and repeat the procedure. What that does is stress relives the engine block and head. Never keep it at the same RPM and it is Ok to run full throttle for short burst after the first few hours of easy driveing. Watch your oil levels at first.
You will need adobe reader to read the manual i sent you, on the link below is for a ranger XP but is the same procedure on how to set up the TPS sensor. The only difference is set the voltage to .735 instead of .710. You will not need the extra tools that are listed in the manual. Also i have included a link for adobe 9.1 if needed for a free download.
Sorry about the failure :shock: , As of installing the 4 cylinder auto engine there would be lots of obstacles that would have to be meet. One would be the lack of room and the other would be the drive line holding up. I have not seen one done the way you were saying but i have heard of 100+ HP rotax engines being used very successfully In ranger Xp's and the RZR :idea: .
Let us know what you find....
Not sure what the change over would be but I am sure that the 100+ horse power would start breaking stuff like rear ends and transmissions, The loss through the belt system may save it though. I cant see the engine fitting under the seat though. I Would like to see pictures on this though.
I need a little more info here. when you put the back up on jack stands and the transmission in neutral and in one wheel drive or two wheel drive can you spin the rear wheels by hand :?: . As of now i am thinking it is one of the rear diffs. Pull the drive shaft off the transmission and re-test :idea: . I personally don't think it is the transmission as of now and i have not heard of this problem as of yet.
One that is paid for
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STONEMAN
I would go with stonemans answer for now but in a few years when the 2005 is old enough i would say for my use a 2011 or 2012 Ranger H.D. if they don't screw it up :!: .
Hope what i sent helps and any other help fell free to ask. Keep us posted on what happens.
Still need a little more info on this. Is the whole gage cluster down or just the fuel gauge part. If it is just the fuel gauge part, it would be either a bad sender in the fuel tank or the wiring itself coming from the sending unit. Because it is an electrical issue it really gets involved to post all the possibilities it could be. If you want to PM your e-mail and i will send a few things over to help you out.
I do not know of to many limits widths in southern California and because of this the only choice as fare as i am concerned would be the RZRs. There have been many people that have posted on this forum on the RZR question and most answers can be answered by doing a search here.
The belt that they sold you if it was a Polaris belt would have been a 118 belt and that is considered as a wide belt, They don't always work on the 2007 and earlier models and the only spot the shim would go is on the primary clutch and that would only make it tighter, I know of no washer that goes on the secondary clutch and that would be new to me. as for the 118 belt it has caused issues on pre 2008 model rangers and i think it is due to clutch alignment from the newer model and the older models. it is a shorter belt and a wider belt and would give you more top end because it would run higher on the shives.