As fare as Polaris is concerned it is not serviceable but it is, I need you to pull the pump and take it to a good auto parts store like Napa Or car quest. here is a possible pump replacement but you will need to use the old cage. It is airtex E8229 and match the old with the new one to be sure. as fare as the wiring it is all good and it is a bad pump.

Same Pump other manufactures

CROSS REFERENCE:
BOSCH:0 580 453 407
AIRTEX:E8229
WALBRO:WEP310, WEP318, WEP321
ACDELCO:EP126, EP382, EP387
NISSAN:17040-8B0000,17042-OW000
HYUNDAI:31110-28100,31110-33610,31111-37300,31111-37200
ISUZU:5-86202-235-0,8-94384-528-0,8-94384-528-1
HONDA:17040-S02-L00,17040-S04-G30,17040-S04-G04,1704-S040-L00,
FEDERAL MOGUL:P72192, P72236, P72237, P72239, P72240, P72241, P742242,
KEM:EFP8229
MAZDA:B3C7-13-350,3E7-13-350A, B3E7-13-35ZB, B61P-13-350B, BPE8-13-350, BPE8-13-35Z

O.k The fuel pressure needs to be 39 psi +/- 3 psi and if your gage is accurate 29 psi is not enough. There is a fuel regulator on the pump inside the tank and maybe there is an adjustment but i am not sure because it depends on the pump. I do not know of what aftermarket replacement pump is used on the RZR but on the ranger XP there is at least 3 different pumps and i only know what is used from 2005 to 2007 which were also manufactured for the auto industry. If you find that the regulator is not adjustable i would take the pump to a really good auto parts store and see if they can cross reference the pump or regulator to one that is used in a car. Polaris charges around 3 times as much for theirs and i would only do that as a last result. I would like you to still give me that last reading before it is time to put it all back together and as of now i would still replace the relay and hope you can fix the regulator otherwise the cost of the fuel pump is not going to be cheap. I will do some research and see if i can come up with a pump part number on my end. I wish the news was better......

Ok this is what I think and what needs to be done. The fuel pump and the fuel gage share the same ground so unplug the connector at the pump and use the Ohms scale on the meter and then meter from the Neg of the battery to the brown of the RZR side of the plug. It should be near zero Ohms. If this tests Passes then the problem is at the fuse box relay or in the fuse box. We need to test the red/black wire at the fuel pump connector to where pin 87 of the pump relay plugs into at the fuse box. There should be all most no resistance on the fuel pump positive. Pull the fuel pump relay and run a 14 ga wire from the battery to where input 87 is with a flat crimp connect and that will bypass the relay for testing purposes. If all is good it should read a constant 12.5 or higher and the pump will come on without the key turned on. The fuel pump pressure should read around 39 psi and should not drop bellow 33 to 34 psi. You could rig this for a test drive and see if the problem corrects itself and if it does you need to replace the EFI relay at this point. Be careful that you do not short anything out because there is no fuse at this point and you have bypassed around most of the wiring except a EFI splice point somewhere elese. The replacement relay is Polaris part number 4011284 and cost $10.00. FYI, to avoid most of the above proceedures I would buy and change the relay out first after testing the ground because it is cheap and I think this is where the problem is and it is and it is easy to do. Also change the 15 amp EFI fuse for a new one just incase. unless it is a bad fuse box connection. Did you replace the fuel filter before all this, you never said…….

Any auto parts store will have one for around $50. We have a chain of stores on the west cost that is called harbor freight that sell cheap ones and you could look into something like northern tool and Jegs.com or summitracing.com for good professional but well priced gages. I like Jegs.com because i get most of my orders in two days and never had an issue with them every order since they first opened. At Jeg.com goto search and enter Fuel Injection Tools and it is around $43.

WWW.Jegs.com
WWW.SummitRacing.com
WWW.NorthernTool.com

That is a good point and yes they do have a voltage regulator and it also could be the problem. But the only reason that makes me think it is not is because the problem only now happens going up a hill and that tells me it is a fuel pump issue or the pump is loseing its prime. :idea:

Grtrnd1, I am glade it is now working for you, As for your tire rubbing issue you can try something i am not all that found of only because it will add a little more stress to the Axles and bearings but you can use a set of wheel spacers, A lot of people that have rhinos and rzr's use them to give a wider tract and better wheel clearance. They will also add a little more stability and will maintain the front end alignment, they are cheap compared to the proper way of correcting the problem which is a full a-arm kit and axles. those kits go for around $500 to $1000 per axle depending on manufafacure. Wheel spacers are between $25 to $40 per wheel.

As i read again you need to forget the base voltage and do what i said a few post ago, adjust for best idle and set the TPS to .735 and reset the idle and repeat till the voltage stays at .735 at a good idle. You need to forget the manual at this point and i am sure it will fix most of your problem. When you put your hand over the intake you restrict the air and that is all the butterfly in the throttle body is doing. Once the butterfly is set along with the TPS the engine will have the proper air to fuel ratio through the whole RPM range, The TPS job is to only know how much fuel to add at any given throttle position and RPM. Think of it as a variable fuel to air ratio Jet.