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I would recommend mobil 1 and motul.
Remember not all mobile one is a true or full synthetic oil in the US anymore but a high grade group 3 base stock oil called Hydrowaxes since the castrol/mobile one law suite a while back. The motul is a PAO or Ester base stock oil along with Royal purple, Red Line and Amsoil :idea: .
I RECENTLY PURCHASED A 2002 RANGER 500,WAS WONDERING IF I WOULD NEED A SNORKEL TUBE TO BE ABLE TO GO THROUGH DEEP WATER? IF SO, WHERE CAN I GET ONE OR IS IT EASIEST TO FABRICATE SOMETHING?
Would have answered this a while ago but I have had my diesel truck all apart because of injector problems along with some PCM electrical Issues, I also had to get it ready for our wonderful new smog inspections program that just started this month :evil: .
The system you have should be the same as mine and it already pulls air way above the level of the top of the engine so unless you plan on wearing scuba gear for yourself I don't think it is necessary for you ![]()
Here what I do with carb engines you have to adjust the a/f mixture manually. With efi or with ecu you just have to reset the ecu by disconnecting the battery for some minutes then install it again. It will automatically adjust by it self.
That is really not true on Polaris ECUs because they really aren't learn mode on these units. The fuel curves are hard coded and in order for an ECU to have the ability to have learn mode they need a Mass air sensor and a O2 sensor and Polaris Ecus do not have this ability.
On a carb motor when you order the exhaust they normally come with a new main jet that needs to be changed out when you do the exhaust Pipe....
My parts people still has there system down and i sent them an e-mail regarding It.
As for the restrictor plate removal just keep a close eye on the plugs and try to call one of the manufacture for the fuel control module and see If the RZR one will cross over to your ranger.
The people I use for my parts sources system is down at this time but when i looked into this late last year there were two different part numbers. The ranger H.D. and the crew had the same part numbers and the XP was another. I noticed that the Polaris web site does not even list the Xp anymore on there parts list so there may have been some changes to there parts system catalogs. Polaris has been known to change designs mid model run. They could have changed things around from what i see so fare. Polaris will not confirm for you to remove the plate but in the picture it shows the plate and it looks easy to do.....
As soon as the parts look up comes back online I will know more.....
I just bought a 2010 Sandstone Crew and have heard that there is a restrictor plate in the exhaust. I'm going to pull it off and check but not until its broke in. Has anyone heard of the restrictors, I've only seen them on the little kids quads. And does anyone have any opinions of the 2010 crew, I love it so far were gonna use it for the dunes and in the mountains. We're a family of 5.
It is true but it is actually a different throttle body manifold. Just order one for a 2010 ranger xp and swap it out.....
Was crossing a storm wash after a recent storm when my rhino hit a deep hole and went underwater and died... Got the rhino out with a dozer, when I got it to land the motor had hydraulic lock from water going up the exhaust pipe - pulled the plug and blew the water out of the cyclider, checked the oil and the level was good and no water got in the case so I fired it up and it started after a few tries... when I put it in gear it went about 4 feet then started to slip real bad. put it in reverse and it did the same thing... I was about 20 miles from the road so I drove it in low but it would slip after i got to about 5 mph - as I drove it seemed to get a little better, after the 20 miles it seemed to work fine - any ideas what would have caused the slippage since as far as I can tell the case is sealed??? Any ideas??? Also, when I checked it out the next day the oil level was low so I filled it and cleaned out all the sand and mud and took it for a drive and it worked fine but I am concerned that it was slipping that way. any recommendations as to things I should check or replace???? Also, being that the motor was hot when it went under is their any chance of piston/ring damage..... Thanks...
If the drive system was full of water it would slip till all the water has dried out. I would service the drive system and maybe install a new belt if the old one has been ran for a long while. It sounds from what you have said that the engine is running fine but you need to change all the fluids as well dry out all the electrical connection to make sure there if no future corrosion to the connections. You normally will not hydraulic lock an engine through the exhaust but only through the intake and the engine would normally not survive afterwards :idea: .
Going with the Rzr to RzrS conversion kit that Jared at Ruthless Motor Sports is promoting. Kind of excited about what it will do!
That would be the proper way to do any lift on any UTV. It increases the stance to add stability along with more wheel travel. It cost more but it is the best way to do it :idea: .
You are right RANGERDALE that really is the proper way to do a lift. Its nice to have some less expensive options out now.
I have been watching your thread and it really looks like a good product
, Maybe when i get back up on my feet again I will be able to start putting money into mine again
, This job thing hear in California is really the Pits now days :? :x .
hi everyone. i have an 07 ranger xp. the question i have is than when i'm drive down a snow covered or ice covered road i like to keep it in 4 wheel drive. at 30mph it disengages and the back tires will break free and start to slide all over the place. is this normal or is there something i can change to prevent it from happening?
The AWD system really is not MPH dependent but RPM dependent. If the engine RPM is over 3100 RPM and or traction is stabilized at the front and rear wheels the system will disengage and will not re-engage till the RPM is below 3100 RPM. It may work a little different on rangers without the ECM modules. The RPM limit is a safety feature so you will not grenade the AWD system. There is no way to fix it unless the ECU is reprogrammed and i do not know anyone that can do that. Even if you can there is a big risk on the drive line :shock: :idea:.
Thanks guys, I am still working on it now that I blew the belt and am waiting for my Bikeman clutch and replacement belts. I dropped the fluid out of the front diff and it looked like a nice starbucks with triple cream. I have heard that using the wrong oil in the front diff can cause it to act up, so I'm sure adding water to the mix doesn't help. I don't seem to have trouble with the RWD (that I can tell) it just seems that the front kicks in when it feels like it. I also found a torn CV boot, torn steering boot and the rod end was shot and the little boot on that was wrecked as well, all on the driver side. :cry: the things you find after you buy a used machine...
On the plus side, I am already learning way more about this machine than I knew about my bulletproof Honda rubicon. The first thought I had after blowing the belt was that I'd have to get my Honda to pull this tank home, too bad I'd already sold it!
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Can anyone give me a quick rundown on how to remove the front axle to replace the cv boot? It is the one closest to the diff, on the drivers side. Thanks, I'll post again when I can see if the oil change helps the diff issues.
If you PM me with your E-mail I could send some scans out of an earlier manual that would be the same procedure. It is to much to typeing to explain in detail on the site and they did not change the system till 2009. As for your four wheel system it is normal to go in and out of AWD while the switch is in AWD mode.
:shock: HOLY DUCK SHIT :!: :shock: Are you still talking about a side-x-side or a $150,000 Lexus suv? just seems a bit elaborate for a UTV. :? :?:
I knew about the way the system worked when i bought it new and yes I do agree it seems way over elaborate for what it needs to do. My problem was the backwards way they did it. If it does not get the proper signals from the ECM and the ECU as well as the transmission the system will not work correctly. On the 05 till the early 07 model they have had issues with the ECM module and the Polaris term is (Electronic Control Module) has gone out and you lose the drive system as well as other features. At around 2007 till now it is done with the ECU known as the (Engine Control Unit) through the fuse box and relays. This system has not had as much of an issue and is cheaper to fix. The 05 to early 07 had both the ECM and Ecu's in them
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Well enough of this because it all gives me a headache
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I have decided to put a different suspension under my Rzr and the lift kit will not be needed an longer. By the way, I had a lift kit on my 2008 which I rode 2860 miles and never tipped it over. I really liked how it worked and did get me up so I could go over the bigger rocks in the trail.
You would be the exception to the rule on RZRs not rolling over. Every trip I go out on with my Ranger Xp I am always tipping back over the standard rzrs, have not needed to do a Rzr-s yet though
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Going with the Rzr to RzrS conversion kit that Jared at Ruthless Motor Sports is promoting. Kind of excited about what it will do!
That would be the proper way to do any lift on any UTV. It increases the stance to add stability along with more wheel travel. It cost more but it is the best way to do it :idea: .
There is life on an old post :?: . Anyway i do not have any idea on why someone would put a 3 inch lift on a already too tippy of a machine anyways :idea: .
The way the Polaris system works on the ranger is when the selector is engaged in the one wheel mode it puts a momentary 12 volts to the rear diff and engages the solenoid and then backs the voltage down just enough to keep the solenoid energized to keep the rear locked in one wheel mode. As long as the solenoid is hot it will stay in one wheel mode till the voltage is completely removed. In two and four wheel modes the ECM removes the voltage to DE-energize the solenoid and puts the rear in two wheel lock mode, I know this sounds backwards but this is how they did it and I do not understand why :?: . I had some issues with the diff on mine not locking into two wheel and i was chasing my tail in circles to find out why and I nearly had to reverse engineer the dang thing to fix the problem. The manual was almost useless on this issue :x .
Now the way the four wheel system works is even if the AWD switch is on it is in two wheel mode till the ECM senses wheel slip from the back to the front wheels and within a fraction of a second it locks all 4 wheels, as long as the ECM senses the wheel slip it will maintain 4 wheel lock and then will unlock it back into 2 wheel mode when the slipping stops.
Now for the problem at hand, If the switch is in one wheel drive mode and it jumps into 2 wheel mode for no reason at all you are having voltage issues going to the Solenoid and or the solenoid is going bad, That part is not cheap as with all Polaris traditions
. If it jumps into four wheel mode while the switch is in one wheel mode that is either a bad switch or ECM.....