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We took the utv out on a run tonight for 17 mile. The backfiring quit. It ran great. It missed one time when we took off, but I blamed it on it being cold. It didn't do it again. We adjusted the air flow at .735. I never touched the tps, but I think I'm going to tomorrow, cause it's idling pretty low 950 to 1000rpm. The only thing I noticed it done tonight toward the end of our run was we were going down a long hill about 500 hundred yards straight down through the woods with the headlights on fan running, foot on the brake and I noticed the dash lights started flashing and the little battery appeared. I dropped it into low and raised the RPM up and after a little bit the battery went out. We got to the bottom and turned around and decided we better get up out of there and on the way up it done it again. It didn't affect the way the bike ran at high or low rpm. It would come and go. We were about a mile and a half away from home when we came out of the woods and I run it up above 4000 rpm all the way and it never came on, but came on again when I pulled in the yard. I put it on the diagnostic screen and put it on voltage and started the bike. At an idle (950rpm) with the headlights on, foot on the brake, back up light on, it was showing 11.7 volts. step up the idle to 1200 and it would show 12.5 volts. Where is the alternator on this thing and what could I check or do to see this problem? The fuel gauge seems to be accurate too.
I just want to thank everyone who helped me get my bike figured out and get it running again. I especially want to thank Rangerdalexp. He worked with me through this forum everynight for almost two solid weeks to track down a problem with my bike, the problem ended up being a fuel pump. My local dealer said my pump was unservicable and I would have to buy the whole tank assembly for 460.00. Dale recommended some pump numbers and suggested I go to my local auto parts and try to match it up. For anyone with a 2008 RZR 800. If your fuel pump goes bad. Call your auto parts store and order an Airtex E8335 pump. It fits a 1993 Jeep Wrangler with the 2.5 four cylinder in it. It also fits a 2008 Polaris RZR 800. It was 112.00. They are servicable and it will work with your existing fuel filter and internal fuel regulator. I have 40 pound of pressure and she working good. Thank you all again. ![]()
Great news. Here's what I done. I went down to our local auto parts store and gave him the numbers for Airtex E8229. Cost is 139.00 The pump was the same but a little different on the plug. The plug may have worked, (I forgot to take the wiring harness with me). I own a 93 Jeep Wrangler that does carry 39 pound of pressure. I told him to give me that pump. That pump number is Aritex E8335. It is EXACTLY the same, plug and all. The price on it was 112.00 with a one year warranty. I came home hooked it up and turned the key the gauge went to 40 pound and I lifted up the fuel assembly cover and could hear the excess fuel returning back into the tank through the internal regulator. I started it up and took off out the road for a short 5 mile trip with speeds up to 50 MPH and no hesitation, no backfire, extremely powerful. I noticed it idles a little low when it's cold. (850rpm) When it warms up it seems ok (1150rpm) Do you think I need to readjust the TPS and air intake valve now that I have all my pressure? So from now on anyone who has fuel pump problems needs to order an Airtex E8335 pump and it will fit exactly right into your existing cage. Piss on Polaris and there 450.00 fuel tank assembly. You can even use the Polaris fuel filter. This Airtex pump even says Bosch right on it. So for right now, she's running good. I hope this is fixed. I want to thank you so much for your cooperation and your help in tracking this problem down and helping me get it fixed. So from here in the Appalachian Mountains of Southeastern Ohio I want to tell you and your family to have a great fourth of July, and I will be in touch in the future to say hi, and try to help anyone else I can on the forum. Thank you again. You are definately a 5 star mechanic. ![]()
Something I had to share and thought was ironic. That part number you gave me for the Airtex E8229 pump. I noticed that it also fits 93 Jeep Wrangler with the 2.5 cylinder. I happen to have one sitting in my driveway that I drive everyday. I went out and hooked up my gauge to the fuel rail and started it up. Walked under the hood and low and behold........ 39 pound. lol.
That could be a possibility. I just read the service manual again, and the way I understand it. Once the pressure exceeds 39 pound, (+or- 3lb.) The regulator spring will allow the excess gas to expel back into the tank. I did another test, it was kind of crude. I took the sending unit out of the tank and took it clear apart and took out the pump. I took the pump and hooked a rubber length of hose to it and plugged the leads back in and hooked my gauge up to the length of hose. Lowered the pump in the tank and turned on the key. 29 pound was all i could get. Now,,, that bypasses both fuel filters, regulator, injectors, and all. So,, definately sounds like a weak fuel pump. Like I said,, My Polaris dealer said they have changed a few, but not very many. They said it is a non servicable device, 460 bucks and he says it comes with a new tank. I don't need a new tank. lol (which I can't beleive, because everything on it can come apart). I have the pump right here in front of me. It's a Bosch pump with numbers F 01R 00R 007,,,,,,,,,, 12V 566,,,,,,, 789-22,,,, Made in China. So I can't believe I wouldn't be able to find one,, But I am definately going to take your advice and go to my local Auto parts and look at that pump tomorrow morning. I'd say with all the testing that you've had me try this week, (which I greatly appreciate,, I've learned alot this week, Thank you) that the fuel pump is the culprit. I will let you know what I find out, and if you can think of anything or know anyone on the forum who may have a used one for sale please pass it along. There isn't too many of these around here for parts.
Ok,, thanks ,, i will definately let you know. I didn't see a way the regulator was adjustable. I am going out and take it back out and look at it again. and take the pump with me to the auto parts store. Let ya know what I found out.
Thank you. I called our local store and they have one in stock and it is 135.00. Do you have any idea the pound that this pump will put out. I was thinking that if it puts out over 39 pound wont the regulator open up and dump the fuel back into the tank? Does the pump in the bike now more than likely put out more than 39 pound and the regulator takes care of the rest. But mine is barely putting out 29. I was figuring the same thing after we done the ohms test and jumped out the relay and it stayed at 29 that it was the pump. I will try to get down there in a day or so and match it up and bring it home and try it. I'll let you know. thank you for your help, I am greatly indebted to you.
I checked the ohms again for you. The ohms from the battery negative to the brown wire is 0.2 with the key on and off. The Ohms from the red wire to the fuse block is 0.2. I ran it with the jumper wire in and it done the same thing. 29 pound and the harder and longer you stayed in the throttle it dropped down to 20 pound and started missing . Stop and let it idle and it would work it's way back up to 29 pound. I called our local dealer and they said it's a non servicable part. I would have to buy the whole gas tank and all. It was 460.00. I was shocked. I looked all over the internet for a replacement pump and can't find one. I know the gauge works too, I hooked it to my car and it immediately went to 60 pound.
Morning,,,,,,, I done what you said, and here's what I got. On the Ohms part of this test. I'm not real familiar with the Ohms setting on my voltmeter. I understand AC and DC but Ohms I don't fully understand. So I will explain to you what I done. My Multimeter has 5 different Ohms settings. 2000K, 200K, 20K, 2000, and 200. I had 0.4 Ohms on 200 and 000 on all the other ones from the Neg of the battery to the brown wire on the plug. I had 1.0 on 20K and 000 on all the other ones from the red wire on the plug to the number 87 terminal in the fuse block. I took a 14 gauge wire from the positive on the battery to the number 87 plug in the fuse block, and checked voltage at the red wire on the plug and had 12.6volts. I then plugged it in and the pump came on and run constantly for about a minute and the pressure never went over 29 pound. I even took the gauge and hooked it up directly to the steel nozzle at the fuel tank where the high pressure line plugs into the tank itself and still got 29 pound. As for the fuel filter I didn't get one. Just for test purposes I took it off and set it down into the full tank of fuel, turned on the pump and got 30 pound of pressure. I also took the gauge off the tester and put it in a gallon jug and run the jumper wire, the fuel came out the hose only about 2 or 3 inches in a steady stream. i have done this before trying to diagnose cars and seen fuel shoot 5 feet. So where do we go from here. I am your mercy. Thank you so much for your help.
Ok,, thank you sir. If you start up the bike sitting idle it will go up to 29 pound, flip on the headlights and it will drop down to 25 pound. It never went over 29 pound no matter what I done. I did take the fuel pump, regulator, apart and found no dirt in it. The fuel filter didn't have a speck of dirt in it. The voltage at the battery, switch, and everywhere I check is always above 12v not running and above 14v while running. The only thing I couldn't figure out while testing is that the service manual said unplug fuel pump connector under the seat and check voltage with key on to wire A and C and make sure you have above 7 volts. I did that and only have 4.67 or so. But if I hold the voltmeter on A and C and have my wife turn on the key it will say 12 or 13 volts for just a second, then you will hear the EFI relay click and the voltage drops less than 5. If she puts her foot on the brake and rolls the engine over it will climb quickly to over 13 again. With it all plugged back in and idling, the voltage at the plug is over 13v. I don't know how or if there is a way to test the EFI relay. The only ground I see is under the driver seat and they are clean and tight from what I can see. I looked at the service manual and it doesnt show how to test the relay. Thanks again. I'd pay for a round trip plane ticket to Ohio for you to fix this, then we'd go riding all day. lol.
I'm thinking it's fuel now too. I have to either configure up something for a fuel pressure gauge or go buy one. I don't have anything handy to use around here. Give me a day or so to come up with something, and i'll let you know. thanks
Here's some more information for you to ponder on. I just took the bike and ran it pretty hard back and forth here in front of the house. Just short bursts of throttle go about 100 feet and let off. Done that a good bit, the fan came on, came off several different times while doing this and it ran fine. Now,,,,, I took it out on the township road, where the grade is and cruised at a steady 30MPH. I went probably a mile and I could feel the bike starting to slow and started cutting out. I pushed down on the throttle and let off and pushed down again and it cleared up for a second and it started acting up again, I done that several times while still moving and after I let up on it after about the 3rd or 4th time it ran fine again. Now im wandering if it's not a fuel pressure problem. Seems like if I stay on the farm and run around on the throttle off the throttle, down hill, up hill, never over 20 MPH it runs fine, But as soon as I get out on the ridge to go over to the neighbors farm it seems to start falling on its face in roughly the same place. I even went down an old hay road that has fairly big stone on it, and run fairly fast to see if it might be a loose connection, but it ran fine.
Here's what I got.
1. Sitting all night in the driveway......12.73V
2. Accessory switch on......................12.42V
3. Engine running............................ 14.42V
4. Engine running with fan on.............12.99 to 13.50 jumping around
5. Engine running with everything turned on with fan running 13.50.
I don't know what to do. It acts like an electrical problem. There is a winch on the bike, I even unhooked it from the battery to see if that was the problem. I'm going out after bit to see if it will do it again pulling the grade. Thanks.
I took the bike out here on a night run. I went back to the exact grade that my wife said it missed on... While pulling the grade at 30 or 35 MPH, i noticed the headlights flickered just enough to notice it and it started missing. I stopped and revved it up a couple times and it backfired. I waited a little bit and took off it ran fine. I turned around and started back,, ran good, I was getting on it pretty hard when I noticed the headlights dimmed again and it started missing and backfired when you let off. I realized every time the fan comes on it starts acting up. While the fan isn't running it runs fine, as soon as it kicks on and starts drawing amperage it acts up. Now where do I go... :? I know you are going to hate me after this.... lol
LOL,,, Just when I thought I was done. My wife took the RZR out on the ridge today, and there is a long uphill grade on our ridge about a quarter mile long. Darn near every time we try to go up this grade the bike will just loose power and start missing, you have to let off and keep working the throttle to get to the top and it will level out and run fine. It doesn't quit, like it's out of gas, just misses. It ran fine around here today. But when she went out on the dirt road to see the neighbor it acted up on the same hill that it acted up on me before. I'm going to check the TPS voltage again. Any ideas where to look. It only seems to do this problem going up a long grade out on the ridge at about 30 MPH. :?