I understand that in California due to new C.A.R.B. regulations again that all Polaris UTVs will have a decrease in power from 2 to 3 H.P. . Also now with the joint venture with Kubota the full size Ranger will now be available with a diesel option . It is nice to see that the standard RZR now comes with the RZRs H.O. engine now.....

The engine is basically the same as the RZR or the Sportsman. It is the one piece engine transmission that is new in the 2010 ranger and it still has not had enough time to be proven. It is only been out for around 9 months. If you need to get one the earliest would be mid 2011 maybe. I will not touch one my self till 2012. Anything that is first year has growing pains or problems and you normally don't start hearing things till the second year as they get miles and time on them.

For instance, look at the first year of the Honda TRX400 with clutch issues. The 2003 and 2004 ford 6.0 powerstroke had a mountain of computer re-flashes. The same goes for the 6.4 also. My buddy has the first year Duramax and has had to have re flashes for the first few years, now he says the transmission is doing funny stuff and has had a few trouble codes on injectors. 

Polaris always seems to change models every third year and I would expect the next major change to be on the 2013 models. There will be some slight changes and or updates till then. The 2009 and the 2010 model would be the exception to that rule.....

Regardless of make or model, if you do some digging you will find dirt on it :idea:  ....

I would assume you mean jumpy of the line. Or do you mean all through the RPM range. Jumpy of the line is normally a sticky throttle cable or an indication of a warn drive belt and or primary clutch engagement issue. Through the whole RPM could be a TPS problem :idea: .

I have to make a correction here since the factory manual has a bad typo in it and I keep forgetting about it. The box under the seat is the actual ECU that control the engine and the box under the hood is the ECM. ECU (Engine Control Unit) and ECM (Electronic Control Module). The parts list is correct in the wording on these parts.

The fusible link is located on the terminal block next to the battery. The ECM is under the hood near the passenger side. They control all the power distribution for the whole Ranger and have no fuses in it. they cost around $235 dollars and have had a history of failure. Allot of the failures were caused by people not wiring things up properly and overloading them.

Here is what the problem is. I have not had one go out yet and have not seen one go out so I have not needed to trouble shoot one. The manual does not give any instruction for testing them as well. I have done piles of research on the problems with them and everything points to just replacing it because there is no way to test it. You swap it out with a known good one from everything I have read on it.

Now we get to what you mentioned on how everything comes on for a few seconds and shuts off. The first thing Is to have the battery load tested and checked out because if the ECM drops below a certain voltage it will shut down everything. The second thing is to Check all the battery connections and test the fusible link for good connections. The third thing is pull the ECM and check for water damage in the two connectors plugging into it. The fourth thing is go to the splice savers and check them out as well. If all of above is good and there are no direct shorts in the system then It could be the ECM.

I would almost bet on a weak battery or bad connection near the battery Or the ECM plugs. Good luck and I hope it all works out for you.... :idea: 

The manual you have must be for a 2007 or latter model because the instrument cluster was not available on the 2005 or 2006 models and only on the 2007 models and up. Also the ECU was changed after 2006. I have the manual for it but the fold out pages are way to big to scan and very involved. Also the only way to get any specific item to you I would have to e-mail it to you. I hope it is only the fusible link that has gone out because it is very possible that you may have popped the ECU that cost well over $200 and they have been known to have issues with them......

I would not really call them friends but more like acquaintances that come along and use other peoples stuff without really asking. they were around the 200lbs range. They may have changed the design on them on the new body style after 2009 because they did change the bed style. They don't normally stay warped but they bend bad during the loading of them. I have taken mine apart and added some steel to it and there is not much inside for strength. They just are not rated for that amount of weight and I would prefer not to buy another new one.... :idea: .

Yes it will add some lift and yes they are out there. I am just not sure who manufactures them. I would contact Jarred at Ruthless Motorsports and ask him about the kits :idea: .

www.ruthlessmotorsports.com
1-435-851-3637