The ones I have had ranged from 1/4 to 3/8 at the top of the poll. the bottom of the flag normally has a ruber gromit to keep the flag from sliping down the poll. The top has the same or a cap. Some have a Light or a LED. If the flag needs to come up from the bottom like some do the flag needs to have enough room to do that. so maybe the thickness of a sharpie would be enough plus a tad more. Also they should be made from lightwehigt but strong material like nylon. A heavy flag will be to much for the poll like I had found out in the past with mine. Also the standard poll will not support duel flags as well.....

I have a spair pismo flag I can take a picture of that I don't use anymore. My good flag is in the trailer that is covered up for the summer....

I have not seen to many people on this site with the 6X6 but I think they are a great machine. I have driven a few older ones and they ride a little heavier then the XPs due to there higher weight capacities.  They also don't turn as well. The full size rangers have already the best ride out of any UTV out there and can be made to go as fast as a RZR. I do not think you will be making a bad choice. I also think but do not quot me that the 2010 and 2011 6X6 are running the older rear running gear with the separated transmission which is a good thing.....

The oil types are listed just above this thread :idea: . But you can use any synthetic transmission fluid in the transmission ......

I had a detailed answer for you but the site has a dumping issue and everything I wrote was lost and do not want to do it again so here is a brief answer :twisted:  .

1) Any modification will void the warranty.
2) The Ecu Has the same programing and part number for all full size rangers in 2010 with the 800 engine so no reprogramming is needed.
3) The reason for the detune is a federal law to hold that model at 40 HP. The Xp that year has a different classification now.
4) The clutch limiter is just a sleeve and can be removed. I also recommend a clutch kit as well.
5) You can reinstall the plate before you need to take it back to the dealer for any warranty work, they will not know the difference :idea:  .

Your talking about the Teflon Break in coatings on the bearings. That is not what I am talking about. It is the Teflon washers and rollers and the buttons you have to be concerned about with the Break clean or carb cleaner. Non solvent safe Plastic parts do not do well with this stuff, that is why it should not be used.....

:shock: Skeeter, The Teflon parts do not go away in a thousand miles unless they go bad for some unnatural reason, and that is not in a thousand miles or even 3 thousand miles , If they did you would have to rebuild the clutch and replace those few parts :idea: . Maybe yours went away due to the break cleaner :idea:  . The ones I did are still there :idea: . I have tore down many of them and only had to replace those parts a few times. The fact is you do not ever use brake cleaner or carburetor cleaner or any non plastic safe cleaner on any plastic parts :idea: . I am not trying to beat up on you here but please do not post bad advise :idea: . Also the other thing is that team makes the clutches for Polaris. There are different levels of team clutches and the ranger xp uses the cheaper secondary clutch with out the removeable helix and the ruber damper. how do I know they are made by team :?: , because it is stamped team on the secondary clutch. You are correct on cleaning the belt with soap and water though :idea:  .

I have seen some Lawn equipment with a Stamped steel transfercases but nothing like that on a truck. Maybe go to the wrecking yard and find a transfer case that is close out of a very small 4x4 car or truck and see if it can be converted :idea: . Good luck and hope to see the finished product in the future .